October 17

Finally, my feet were good enough to carry me today.  I didn’t go far, only about 9 miles, but it was good.

It was raining when I awoke,  so I took my time in leaving.   Besides, I wanted to wait for the Farmacia to open to restock my blister provisions.   And I stopped for a bit of desayuna:  cafe con leche, fresh OJ, and toast. Good thing I ate, as there were no bars along the way today.

It felt good to have the pack on, too.  The first couple of miles were along the road, but soon we veered off to a country trail.  A number of fairly steep ups and downs, through 3 small hamlets.  Along the way,  the sky cleared and it warmed up a bit.  The trail followed a river.  And most of the countryside today was given over to livestock.  I saw many cows and sheep.

The nut trees are ready for harvest now, too.  There are so many chestnuts and walnuts on the ground.   I still have no idea why there are no squirrels!

I  misread the guide book and got to a point where I thought I still had another 3 miles to go.  I was disappointed,  as my foot had been uncomfortable,  but I thought “I can do this.”  Fortunately,  after a short while,  there was an overlook with the monastery in full view.  Gorgeous, and such a welcome sight!   Of course, there was another steep descent.

Decided to stay at a place I hadn’t read about.  A young woman from Colorado walked the Camino last year, and decided to rent and operate an inn.  Very glad I’m staying.  Her mom and her mom’s best friend are here helping out.  There is a pilgrims lounge, for tea, coffee and conversation.   I stopped in tonight and the landlord was here.  He is an interesting older man, who makes his own wine and walnut liquor.  Yum!  GrwT conversation ensued – one of the daily Camino gifts.

I went to the only true hotel in the town for my meal today.  I had more caldo Gallego,  which I love so much, then a plate of baby fried trouts.  I knew they were to be eaten like sardines, but I couldn’t bring myself to eat the heads.  Thankfully,  no one does.  For “postre”, I had a lovely lemon mousse.  All this, bread and a bottle of wine on the table, for only € 12.  And the food was so good!

Later on I went to tour the monastery.   What a rip!  This place is huge, and filled with incredible murals.  But the young monk took us through so fast, there was no time to appreciate the art or the architecture.   No sign that anyone lived there, either.

Anyway, that’s been the day today.  When I return home, I’ll try to update the posts with pictures.   But for now, perhaps because my wifi signal is weak, they won’t upload.

Tomorrow, Sarria.

 

 

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