In Azqueta I stayed at La Perla Negra – an albergue that my new friend Nuria, whom I met at La Casa Magica, had talked about. I was the first of 5 guests to arrive that day, and on arrival there was a pack waiting that had been shipped ahead. Later, Nuria is there! I was very happy to see her. I felt like we really bonded during our two days together in Villatuerta.
And while this is off subject, let me just say how wonderful the vegetarian dinner was at La Perla. Elena, the owner, made us a hot green soup, the best tomatoes so ripe and lush, fried peppers, and tostado – a Spanish omelet with potatoes and lots of olive oil.
Monday morning I left before Nuria knowing she’d catch up to me. She did.
We walked together to Los Arcos. It was a beautiful walk for much of the way, through harvested wheat fields, and then vineyards interspersed with asparagus.
At the base of that tree was an elderly couple playing Those Were the Days on violin and accordian. What a wonderful treat! The sky was just phenomenal there, too.
We got to Los Arcos and were very early for the bus to Logroño, so we had lunch. It was very good, including fresh trout.
Sadly, the bus didn’t take very long. Nuria left for the train station, while I started walking into the city center to find lodging for the night. Accompanying me was a German woman we’d met in Villatuerta. I hate to say this, but I was glad she decided to stay elsewhere.
I was able to get a solo room for cheap, and proceeded to sneeze almost incessantly. Uh oh! This was late in the afternoon, so I settled in, washed some clothes, etc.
Couldn’t decide on food that evening, so went to bed feeling miserable. Fortunately, I was able to do some sightseeing, mostly at churches, before heading back to the bus station on Tuesday about noon.
By now I have a bad cough – no denying that I’ve got a cold.
On to Santo Domingo de La Calzada.